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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are precisely the same!

Diamonds are usually graded by 3 different experts. The blemishes and inclusions inside the diamond are similar; however, the opinions in the experts around the grade from the diamond vary slightly.

The Four C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) employed to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, about the weight of any paper clip. Carat differs from Karat; one is for the weight of a diamond, another for the purity of gold.

A higher carat means a bigger and rarer size diamond. The expense of diamonds vary by size; the higher the carat the greater the cost per Carat is going to be. The costs of diamonds greatly increase on the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not really an excellent representation of any diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size by the surface area on the top because this is how you view a diamond after it is in its setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have completely different prices depending on the other 4 C’s of any Clarity, Color and diamond and Cut.

The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds that have been utilized to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For instance, a diamond weighing .Carats will likely be identified as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, such as one point o’ five carats for a 1.05 CT diamond.

Choosing the right Carat weight depends upon many different factors. An important factor is the size of “her” hand. The lesser “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

You will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well, because larger diamonds are rarer. Lower than one out of 1 million rough stones mined are large enough to make a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds of the same shape and carat weight can still appear different in dimensions depending on the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond includes a greater proportion of their total weight “hidden” in the depth, causing a smaller diameter than a well cut diamond. These differences are usually small, but noticeable. A highly cut diamond may even have a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, yet still possess a larger diameter, making it appear larger in proportions.

Cutter of rough diamond has to balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain the maximum amount of carat weight through the rough stone as is possible). So many people are ready to pay more for larger diamonds which are fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. you can find occasionally pressure in the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is very important for this reason.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight could also appear totally different in dimensions based on the model of the diamond. For example, a 1 carat marquise has a tendency to appear larger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each diamond, the chart shows the subsequent:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown really are a very close approximation from the actual size of a 1 carat excellent cut for each and every shape. Visually, the longer shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) tend to appear larger towards the eye compared to round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements correspond to the form shown above, and therefore are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The total area (mm2). The area provides the true dimensions of the diamond face up (since it would appear when placed in a ring). For instance, as the oval diamond image appears greater than the round image, the actual surface area is identical for your two shapes, meaning the main difference in dimensions is one of perception, not reality. In contrast, the oval not merely appears greater than the princess cut, it really features a larger area (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the main difference will not be simply an illusion created by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity refers to the size and amount of the flaws (blemishes and inclusions) in a diamond. Clarity is thought to get the least impact on a diamond’s appearance through the 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades as opposed to those with increased imperfections.

Diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme heat and pressure deep within the earth, and because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws. These flaws are classified as “blemishes and “inclusions”.” Inclusion - found inside the diamond. Inclusions includecracks and bubbles, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-found on the surface of the diamond.

Inclusions

By interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant, Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond. Some inclusions can affect the effectiveness of a diamond and in many cases ensure it is very likely that this diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that show up in diamonds. They may be found by themselves or perhaps in clusters as well as a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions develop a hazy spot inside the diamond referred to as a cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken away from the diamond using a laser. They leave a vapor like trail through the top of the diamond up to the level where inclusion was within the diamond. These are an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks within the diamond that resembles the design of the feather. If a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond, the diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows.

Cleavage: A straight crack within the diamond without feathering. If it is hit from the correct angle, a cleavage crack can split the diamond apart.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear round the girdle (In which the top/bottom and crown/pavilion in the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines in a diamond that occurs by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are many blemishes that barely have effect on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur when a diamond is cut and polished, though it may be being worn, or these are an all natural part of the diamond.

Scratch: A great surface line that may be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Takes place when diamonds rub against each other from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A series of nicks in the edges of the facet. Causes the facet to show up fuzzy.

Pit: Occur when a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints are to every and each unique person, a diamond plot is to a diamond. The diamond plot is exactly what jewelers use to see the number of blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on the diamond plot the greater quality the diamond is. The diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as if you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view. Each of the inclusions and blemishes that you simply might or might not have the capacity to see with all the human eye alone is shown in the diamond plot. When comparing the markings on the diamond plot for the diamond, some of the markings will be impossible to find out unless seen through the side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Very rare.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Very rare.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions can not be seen using the human eye and they are hard to see even with 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are generally seen from your pavilion (bottom) of the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are usually seen through the crown (top) from the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and Blemishes are visible with 10x magnification but nearly impossible to detect using the naked eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and could be observed with the naked eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions which are hard to see using the human eye

If a person knows what they are looking for, SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible for the human eye alone

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions that are so pronounced, many diamond dealers do not carry them.

Color

Colour of any diamond will not change over time. The scale to grade a diamond’s insufficient color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further on the scale you go, the better yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher within the range are definitely more valuable. The yellowish tint is actually created from the presence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent with no hue or color

Almost no diamond is ideal

Chemical impurities affect color

The hue and intensity either can eliminate or add value

Are available in variety of colors, based on structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intenseyellow and brown, or any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Rare.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color could be detected. F features a very faint yellowish tint to it that will simply be seen if the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. If compared with a higher quality diamond, one can see the difference.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness produced by the combination of all of the white light reflections from the surface and also the on the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light into the colours in the visible spectrum, considered as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, when a diamond or source of light is moved). If it has the perfect colour and clarity, in other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even.

The way a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is the thing that allows for the utmost amount of light to become returned right out of the top of the diamond. A well cut diamond will appear larger due to the light that is certainly being reflected out from its top. Each time a diamond is poorly cut, the weight may be based at the bottom making the diamond seem small compared to what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most favored of all shapes. It’s designed to make the most sparkle. This is the most analyzed and researched cut. It really is a timeless cut. About 75% of all diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which suggests they may have 58 facets. Cost more per carat than fancy shapes for just two reasons: demand is high and it has a minimal yield. The majority of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for instance; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% over a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: Research in the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was launched. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to increase brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent brilliance and sparkle. It is a more modern cut, created in the 1960s. They normally cost less simply because they permit a larger yield from the rough cut. They have an inclination to check smaller when viewed through the top in comparison to other shapes with similar carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Away from all fancy cuts, it’s most popular, especially for engagement rings. Good option for flexibility in dealing with nearly every ring style, just like the round cut. Slightly lower price per carat than round cuts. Because of the four sided shape, comparable to a pyramid, in the princess cut, is comparable to 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed through the same rough stone with little in the rough stone being wasted. Crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds, but because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size. Some are rectangular, though traditionally square. More rectangular, discounted price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will show up square to naked eye. Length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone if set with other diamonds. Should be set with prongs so the four corners are protected. Most likely to chip around the corners. Once close to the outer edge of the rough stone flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were. After the stone is set, the corners is going to be included in the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones having a table % in excess of depth %.

Oval: It absolutely was developed in the 1960s. It is really an elliptical version in the round cut. When viewed from the top, it is likely to look greater than other cuts. Produced by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar brilliance and fire. Elongated shape creates an illusion of any larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear slimmer and long. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more appealing when diamond is by using side stones. Generally have more of a bowtie.

Marquise: Similar to the oval shape, but the ends are pointed. When viewed from the top, it can look larger than almost all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, to whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly enjoyed a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface area. Maximizes the perceived scale of a diamond. The elongated shape makes the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is vital. Two end points need to align with one another, and also the right and left sides should mirror one another. Slight misalignment can cause an off kilter try looking in the setting. Excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended. It ought to be set using the prongs protecting the two points. Like the princess cut, the points were once closest to the outer edge of the rough stone, so flaws will probably be located there. The prongs which cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Points will also be prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It is actually pointed at one end and round in the other. Because of its resemblance to a teardrop, it is also known as a teardrop cut. This sort of cut is generally used in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Combination of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Must have excellent or great symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the lower and upper curves for both sides from the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. Rounded top should consider looking just like a semi circle. It must not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in order to add weight, cutters can provide diamond added girth nearby the point or top. It affords the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It should be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It also need to be impacted by the long run setting. A narrow stone is perfect for dangling earings, along with a wider shaped stone is much better for any solitaire ring. Has a amount of bowtie. Should be set with prong in the point., the purpose was once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs which cover the points is likely to make the flaws invisible. Point is also very likely to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also referred to as the pillow cut. It is incorporated in the form of a square or rectangle. It is also referred to as old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has been in existence for about 200 years. It absolutely was the de facto diamond shape till the early 20th century. It is actually prized by antique diamond dealers as a result of return or light inside a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it has an enlarged culet. Inside the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. There has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut, because of him. Standards for this cut vary a lot more than other shapes and private taste will mainly become the deciding factor on which stone to pick. Have more fire, even though less brilliant that round cuts. They have three pavilion facet patterns. Ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered, but GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut. There is a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is a length to width ration of 1.00. most popular is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It features a recagular shape with the edges cut to possess steps, which act like mirrors. The mirrors are employed to show the clarity in the diamond. Produced by the step cuts of pavilion and its large, open table. Generate a hall of mirrors effect, instead of the sparkle of any brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut an elegant appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are simpler to see in this particular cut. If prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut, classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5.. It’s considered a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: It is more octagonal, though it is similar to the emerald cut. It’s steps and corners are larger and deeper. First produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, during the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but made a comeback around 2002, due to the modifications that increased brilliance. Comparable to square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, a greater crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher can look to get concentric squares while you look through the table. Has cropped corners, but because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal. When mounted inside a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape inside a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square to the human eye alone.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot crown and pavilion. It creates a vibrant, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between princess and cushion cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or maybe more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more prone to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 will appear square to human eye. Rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut, but want the brilliance of a round stone. Looks very similar to princess cut, but it has cropped corners. Once set, they look nearly identical as a result of prongs within the corners.

Heart Shaped: shaped like a heart. Modified brilliant cut. Unique and unmistakable symbol of affection. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is very important. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which is between the two lobes, ought to be sharp and distinct. The wings, since they curve to the level, should possess a slight rounded shape. Ones less than .50 carats might not be the ideal choice, becuas it’s more challenging to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is placed in the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline of the shape after it’s set. The prongs needs to be placed one on each lobe, then one on the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants should be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: identifies distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed from the side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth from the width in the diamond. the low the depth %, the greater a diamond of the certain carat can look.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer fringe of diamond where crown meets pavillion. May be faceted- number of tiny polished sides taht go across the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes round the diamond, this type of girdle is currently uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. The way the girdle is does not impact the price or appearance of the diamond. it really is described by width. the width varies at different points from the diamond. and it is identified as a range, from thinnest to the thickest point. can impact diamond in three ways: The thickness in the girdle affects the relative position from the surrounding facets, and so can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.

A thicker girdle will prove to add weight to your diamond, thereby increasing its price. Since a thick girdle adds depth to some diamond however, not width, a thick girdled diamond will never appear any larger when viewed from the top (e.g. when occur a piece of jewelry), inspite of the additional carat weight. The effect on carat price and weight is minimal, but real.

An Exceptionally Thin girdle is a lot more prone to chipping, and so needs to be avoided for diamonds that have to be set in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less subjected to rough contact and so are less susceptible to chipping around the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and extremely Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners more prone to chipping. Consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners if you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle.

Diamond culet: small area at the bottom in the pavilliion. it could be pointed or perhaps a tiny facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet scale of Medium or smaller is going to be invisible for the human eye, and also have no negative impact on a diamond’s appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: amount of smoothness of each and every element of a diamond; Whenever a diamond is cut and polished, microscopic surface defects could be produced by the polishing wheel because it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. Depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance. if diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer. Poor grade ought to be avoided for those diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets align and intersect. might include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending them back on the wrong angles, which decreases the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a small decrease in symmetry as a means of preventing a defect found in the rough stone from being retained within the finished diamond. it’s important in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and higher. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. includes a significant impact on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish may be priced 10%-15% higher than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more related to consumer’s perceived value of “excellent” grades, than the actual influence on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes

Cut refers to diamondsproportions and symmetry, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off the surface (as glare). From the 80% that enters, a part will escape through the base of the diamond (where observer cannot appreciate it). A properly proportioned diamond could have each facet properly placed and angled in order to maximize the volume of light that reflects back from the crown (top) from the diamond, to the eye in the observer. This reflected light is perceived as fire, brilliance and scintillation.

Watch out for: Inclusion is visible to the naked eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds without having a GIA certification

Comparison between Carat Surface and weight Area

When reviewing any diamond, you should remember that a rise in diameter could have a bigger rise in the crown surface area which leads to a perceived increase in overall size.

Two diamonds with the same carat and shape size may be perceived as having sizes as a result of cut dimensions. A diamond with a deep cut has even more of it’s weight “hidden” inside the depth, which leads to a reduced diameter than a well cut diamond.

A well cut diamond that includes a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet includes a larger diameter will show up larger in size.

A diamonds cut and carat figure out how big the stone will look. A properly cut diamond that is certainly lighter compared to a poorly cut diamond will seem to be bigger diamond that is more beautiful compared to heavier one.

A carat is founded on weight. It can not reflect that actual scale of a diamond. It ought to be considered with all the diameter in millimeters along with its cut grade.

The body weight of the poorly cut diamond may be hidden within the bottom of the diamond. That can make the diamond appear smaller in size.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are incredibly rare and expensive. To offer the public with all the popular colored diamonds, jewelers put the diamond through a procedure for high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both the radiation treatments are complete as well as the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler needs to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This can result in the color of the diamond to modify since the process to include color to a diamond will not be full proof.

The clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond, when evaluating fancy diamonds.

When cutting an expensive diamond, rather than cutting the diamond to maximize sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the colour

Every colored diamond has been irradiated because this has been in contact with natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color brought on by presence of boron

Yellow- color brought on by presence of nitrogen

Green- color brought on by natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone

Girdle - Where the top/crown and bottom/pavilion of a diamond meet. The location that is usually grasped by prongs when picking up a diamond.

Crown - The best part of the diamond which is higher than the girdle

Pavilion - The base part of the diamond that is certainly below the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found in a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws located on the surface of the diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone of the month of April is actually a diamond

The hardest natural substance on the planet is a diamond

Diamonds are colorless while in their pure state

The most common colors of the diamond is yellow and brown

The rarest colors of a diamond are blue and red

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is when diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

In ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutcourage and strength, and invincibility

The phrase diamond hails from the Greek word “adamas” which suggests unbreakable

The Romans and Greeks believed diamonds were the tears from the gods and splinters of fallen stars

Diamonds could only be scratched by other diamonds

250 tons of ore must be processed and mined to produce a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the most useful known, naturally sourced, thermal/heat conductor

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