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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are exactly the same!

Diamonds are generally graded by 3 different experts. The blemishes and inclusions inside the diamond are similar; however, the opinions in the experts around the grade from the diamond vary slightly.

The 4 C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) used to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, concerning the weight of any paper clip. Carat differs from Karat; one is for that weight of any diamond, one other to the purity of gold.

An increased carat means a bigger and rarer size diamond. The expenses of diamonds vary by size; the greater the carat the higher the cost per Carat will likely be. The values of diamonds greatly increase on the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not a good representation of the diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size through the surface area on the top because this is how you view a diamond after it is in their setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have totally different prices depending on the other 4 C’s of any Color, diamond and Clarity and Cut.

The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds that have been employed to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For instance, a diamond weighing .Carats will be referred to as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, like some time o’ five carats for a 1.05 CT diamond.

Deciding on the best Carat weight depends upon a number of factors. A key point is how big “her” hand. The smaller “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

Because larger diamonds are rarer, you will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well. Less than one in a million rough stones mined are big enough to generate a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds of the identical shape and carat weight can still appear different in dimensions in accordance with the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond has a greater proportion of its total weight “hidden” within the depth, producing a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond. These differences are usually small, but noticeable. A highly cut diamond may actually have a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet still use a larger diameter, which makes it appear larger in dimensions.

Cutter of rough diamond has to balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain just as much carat weight from the rough stone as possible). Lots of people are prepared to pay more for larger diamonds which can be fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. you will find occasionally pressure around the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is essential because of this.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight might also appear completely different in dimensions based on the model of the diamond. As an example, a 1 carat marquise is likely to appear bigger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each and every diamond, the chart shows the subsequent:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown really are a very close approximation from the actual size of a 1 carat excellent cut for each shape. Visually, the more shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) often appear larger towards the eye than the round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements match the form shown above, and they are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The entire area (mm2). The region affords the true size of the diamond face up (because it would appear when occur a ring). For instance, while the oval diamond image appears larger than the round image, the actual area is the same for your two shapes, meaning the main difference in dimensions is one of perception, not reality. In contrast, the oval not only appears bigger than the princess cut, it really includes a larger surface (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the real difference will not be simply an illusion produced by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity means the amount and size in the flaws (inclusions and blemishes) inside a diamond. Clarity is believed to have the least impact on a diamond’s appearance through the 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades as opposed to those with more imperfections.

Diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth, and because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws. These flaws are classified as “inclusions” and “blemishes.” Inclusion - found in the diamond. Inclusions includebubbles and cracks, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-located on the top of the diamond.

Inclusions

By interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant, Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond. Some inclusions can affect the strength of a diamond and in some cases make it much more likely the diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that show up in diamonds. They could be discovered by themselves or perhaps in clusters and a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions produce a hazy spot in the diamond known as a cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is removed coming from a diamond using a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from your top of the diamond up to the stage in which the inclusion was inside the diamond. These are an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks in the diamond that resembles the form of any feather. The diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows if a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond.

Cleavage: A straight crack inside the diamond with no feathering. A cleavage crack can split the diamond apart if it is hit from the correct angle.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear around the girdle (Where the top/crown and bottom/pavilion of the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines inside a diamond that takes place by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are numerous blemishes that barely possess impact on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur whenever a diamond is polished and cut, though it may be being worn, or they are an all natural portion of the diamond.

Scratch: A great surface line that may be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Takes place when diamonds rub against one another from people’s mishandling of jewelry. Several nicks in the edges in the facet. Causes the facet to look fuzzy.

Pit: Occur each time a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints will be to each and every unique person, a diamond plot is always to a diamond. The diamond plot is exactly what jewelers use to view the amount of blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on a diamond plot the greater quality the diamond is. The diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as if you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view. All of the blemishes and inclusions that you simply may or may not have the ability to see with all the naked eye is shown around the diamond plot. When you compare the markings on the diamond plot towards the diamond, a few of the markings will likely be impossible to view unless seen through the side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Unusual.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Unusual.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions should not be seen with the naked eye and are challenging to see despite having 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are usually seen from your pavilion (bottom) from the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are often seen from the crown (top) of the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Blemishes and Inclusions are visible with 10x magnification but nearly impossible to detect with all the naked eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and might be seen using the naked eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions which are difficult to see with the naked eye

SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye if a person knows what they are looking for.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible for the human eye

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions which are so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.

Color

The colour of the diamond fails to change as time passes. The scale to grade a diamond’s lack of color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further on the scale you go, the greater yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher within the range are more valuable. The yellowish tint is formed from the actual existence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent with no hue or color

Almost no diamond is perfect

Chemical impurities affect color

The hue and intensity either can remove or add value

Are available in number of colors, based on structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intenseyellow and browns Alternatively, any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Very rare.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color may be detected. F includes a very faint yellowish tint with it that may only be seen when the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. One can see the difference if compared with a higher quality diamond.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness developed by the mixture of all white light reflections from the surface and also the on the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light in to the colours in the visible spectrum, seen as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, each time a diamond or light source is moved). In other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even if it has the perfect colour and clarity.

The way a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is what enables the utmost level of light to get returned out of the the surface of the diamond. A properly cut diamond will appear larger as a result of light that is being reflected out of its top. Whenever a diamond is poorly cut, the weight may be based in the bottom making the diamond seem smaller than exactly what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most favored of all the shapes. It’s made to produce the most sparkle. It will be the most researched and analyzed cut. It is a timeless cut. About 75% of diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which means they have got 58 facets. Will cost more per carat than fancy shapes for two reasons: demand is high and it has a low yield. Most of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for example; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% greater than a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A study of the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was launched. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to maximize brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent sparkle and brilliance. It is a more modern cut, created in the 1960s. They normally cost less simply because they enable a better yield from the rough cut. They tend to look smaller when viewed through the top when compared with other shapes with similar carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Away from all fancy cuts, it’s most favored, particularly for engagement rings. Good choice for flexibility in dealing with just about any ring style, just like the round cut. Slightly discounted price per carat than round cuts. As a result of four sided shape, much like a pyramid, of the princess cut, is a lot like 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed through the same rough stone with little in the rough stone being wasted. Crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds, but because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size. Traditionally square, but some are rectangular. More rectangular, lower price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will show up square to naked eye. If set with other diamonds, length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone. Should be set with prongs so the four corners are protected. Most likely to chip in the corners. Flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were once close to the outer edge of the rough stone. When the stone is defined, the corners is going to be protected by the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones with a table % more than depth %.

Oval: It absolutely was developed in the 1960s. It is really an elliptical version of the round cut. When viewed from your top, it tends to look bigger than other cuts. Created by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar fire and brilliance. Elongated shape creates an illusion of the larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear slimmer and long. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more desirable when diamond is by using side stones. Tend to have more of a bowtie.

Marquise: The ends are pointed, although similar to the oval shape. When viewed from your top, it can look greater than just about all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly had a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface. Maximizes the perceived dimensions of a diamond. The elongated shape helps make the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is vital. Two end points need to align with each other, and also the right and left sides should mirror the other person. Slight misalignment can cause an off kilter look in the setting. Excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended. It should be set with all the prongs protecting the two points. Just like the princess cut, the points were once nearest to the outer edge of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs which cover the points is likely to make the flaws invisible. Points will also be prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It is actually pointed at one round and end at the other. It is also known as a teardrop cut, because of its resemblance to a teardrop. This type of cut is generally found in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Combination of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Must have excellent or great symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the upper and lower curves on sides of the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, without straight edges. Rounded top need to look like a semi circle. It must not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in order to add weight, cutters may give diamond added girth near the point or top. It affords the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It ought to be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It ought to be impacted by the near future setting. A narrow stone is great for dangling earings, and a wider shaped stone is much better for any solitaire ring. Contains a level of bowtie. Should be set with prong in the point., the idea used to be nearest to the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs that cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Point is additionally prone to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also called the pillow cut. It is in the form of a square or rectangle. Additionally it is called the old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for around 200 years. It had been the de facto diamond shape until the early twentieth century. It is actually prized by antique diamond dealers because of the return or light within a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. Additionally, it posseses an enlarged culet. Inside the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. There has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut, because of him. Standards for this cut vary more than other shapes and private taste will mainly become the deciding factor on which stone to select. Have more fire, even though less brilliant that round cuts. They may have three pavilion facet patterns. Ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered, but GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut. They have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is a length to width ration of 1.00. most popular is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It has a recagular shape with all the edges cut to possess steps, which work like mirrors. The mirrors are utilized to show the clarity from the diamond. Developed by the step cuts of pavilion along with its large, open table. Produce a hall of mirrors effect, rather than the sparkle of any brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut a stylish appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are easier to see in this particular cut. If prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut, classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5.. It’s considered a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: it is similar to the emerald cut, but it is more octagonal. It’s steps and corners are deeper and larger. First produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, during the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but produced a comeback around 2002, because of the modifications that increased brilliance. Comparable to square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, an increased crown, along with a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will appear to possess concentric squares as you examine the table. Because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal, even though has cropped corners. When mounted inside a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square for the naked eye.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot crown and pavilion. It generates a vibrant, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between cushion and princess cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more prone to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 can look square to human eye. Rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut, but want the brilliance of a round stone. Looks very similar to princess cut, but it has cropped corners. Once set, they look nearly identical as a result of prongs covering the corners.

Heart Shaped: the same shape as a heart. Modified brilliant cut. Unique and unmistakable symbol of affection. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is very important. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which can be in between the two lobes, should be sharp and distinct. The wings, because they curve to the level, should possess a slight rounded shape. Ones under .50 carats will not be a good choice, becuas it’s more challenging to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is placed in the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline from the shape after it’s set. The prongs ought to be placed one on each lobe, then one on the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants should be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: refers to distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed from the side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth through the width from the diamond. the reduced the depth %, the bigger a diamond of the certain carat will appear.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer side of diamond where crown meets pavillion. Might be faceted- combination of tiny polished sides taht go round the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes across the diamond, this kind of girdle is now uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. The way the girdle is will not affect the price or appearance from the diamond. it is described by width. the width varies at different points in the diamond. and is also referred to as a range, from thinnest to the thickest point. can impact diamond in three ways: The thickness in the girdle affects the relative position in the surrounding facets, and so can impact cut. A diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width, because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade.

A thicker girdle will add weight to your diamond, thereby increasing its cost. Since a thick girdle adds depth to a diamond but not width, a thick girdled diamond is not going to appear any larger when viewed from the top (e.g. when set in a bit of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. The effect on carat weight and price is minimal, but real.

An Extremely Thin girdle is a lot more susceptible to chipping, and for that reason needs to be avoided for diamonds that should be placed in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and are therefore less vunerable to chipping across the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and extremely Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, since this shape already has sharp corners more prone to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.

Diamond culet: small area towards the bottom in the pavilliion. it can be pointed or even a tiny facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet dimensions of Medium or smaller will be invisible for the human eye, and also have no negative impact on a diamond’s appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: amount of smoothness of each and every facet of a diamond; Each time a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects may be created by the polishing wheel since it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. Depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance. if diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer. Poor grade should be avoided for all diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets align and intersect. might include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending it off in the wrong angles, which reduces the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a small decrease in symmetry as a way of preventing a defect present in the rough stone from being retained included in the finished diamond. it’s important in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and higher. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. features a significant influence on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish might be priced 10%-15% higher than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more to do with consumer’s perceived price of “excellent” grades, compared to the actual influence on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes

Cut refers to diamondsproportions and symmetry, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off of the surface (as glare). From the 80% that enters, a part will escape through the bottom of the diamond (where observer cannot appreciate it). A highly proportioned diamond will have each facet properly placed and angled so as to maximize the amount of light that reflects back from the crown (top) from the diamond, towards the eye in the observer. This reflected light is perceived as scintillation, brilliance and fire.

Watch out for: Inclusion is seen to the naked eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds with no GIA certification

Comparison between Carat weight and Surface Area

When reviewing any diamond, it is essential to keep in mind that an increase in diameter will have a more substantial increase in the crown surface which results in a perceived boost in overall size.

Two diamonds with similar carat and shape size can be regarded as having various sizes because of the cut dimensions. A diamond with a deep cut has even more of it’s weight “hidden” within the depth, which leads to a reduced diameter when compared to a well cut diamond.

A highly cut diamond which has a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, yet includes a larger diameter will appear larger in size.

A diamonds cut and carat determine how big the stone will appear. A properly cut diamond that is lighter when compared to a poorly cut diamond will seem to be bigger diamond that is more beautiful compared to heavier one.

A carat is dependant on weight. It will not reflect that actual dimensions of a diamond. It ought to be considered with the diameter in millimeters and its cut grade.

The weight of a poorly cut diamond could be hidden in the base of the diamond. That will make the diamond appear smaller in size.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are incredibly expensive and rare. To supply the general public using the desired colored diamonds, jewelers put the diamond via a procedure of high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both the radiation remedies are complete as well as the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler must re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This can result in the shade of the diamond to change because the process to include color to a diamond is not really full proof.

The clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond, when evaluating fancy diamonds.

When cutting a fancy diamond, as opposed to cutting the diamond to increase sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the colour

Every colored diamond continues to be irradiated because this has been exposed to natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color brought on by presence of boron

Yellow- color caused by presence of nitrogen

Green- color due to natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone

Girdle - Where the top/crown and bottom/pavilion of the diamond meet. The region that is certainly usually grasped by prongs when picking up a diamond.

Crown - The top portion of the diamond which is over the girdle

Pavilion - The base portion of the diamond which is below the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found in a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws found on the surface of any diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone from the month of April is really a diamond

The most difficult natural substance in the world is a diamond

Diamonds are colorless while in their pure state

The most typical colors of a diamond is yellow and brown

The rarest colors of any diamond are red and blue

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is when diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

And invincibilit, in ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutstrength and couragey

The term diamond comes from the Greek word “adamas” which suggests unbreakable

The Greeks and Romans believed diamonds were the tears in the splinters and gods of fallen stars

Diamonds could only be scratched by other diamonds

250 a lot of ore should be mined and processed to produce a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the most useful known, natural, thermal/heat conductor

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