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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are precisely the same!

Diamonds are usually graded by 3 different experts. The blemishes and inclusions inside the diamond are the same; however, the opinions in the experts in the grade of the diamond vary slightly.

The Four C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) employed to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, about the weight of a paper clip. Carat is different from Karat; one is for your weight of a diamond, another to the purity of gold.

A greater carat means a bigger and rarer size diamond. The expenses of diamonds vary by size; the greater the carat the greater the cost per Carat will be. The values of diamonds greatly increase in the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not really a great representation of the diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size through the area on the top because this is the way we view a diamond after it is in the setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat may have totally different prices depending on the other 4 C’s of the Clarity, Color and diamond and Cut.

The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds that were employed to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For example, a diamond weighing .Carats will be referred to as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, such as some time o’ five carats for a 1.05 CT diamond.

Selecting the best Carat weight depends upon a number of factors. A key point is the size of “her” hand. The lesser “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

You will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well, because larger diamonds are rarer. Under one in a million rough stones mined are large enough to produce a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds of the identical shape and carat weight can still appear different in size depending on the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond features a greater proportion of their total weight “hidden” inside the depth, producing a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond. These differences are usually small, but noticeable. A properly cut diamond may actually have a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, but still possess a larger diameter, which makes it appear larger in size.

Cutter of rough diamond must balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain as much carat weight from your rough stone as possible). Many people are ready to pay more for larger diamonds which can be fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. there are at times pressure around the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is important due to this.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight might also appear completely different in size based on the form of the diamond. For instance, a 1 carat marquise has a tendency to appear larger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each and every diamond, the chart shows these:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown certainly are a very close approximation in the actual scale of a 1 carat excellent cut for every shape. Visually, the more shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) often appear larger for the eye compared to the round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements correspond to the form shown above, and therefore are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The entire surface area (mm2). The area affords the true size of the diamond face up (since it would appear when set in a ring). For instance, while the oval diamond image appears bigger than the round image, the actual surface area is identical for the two shapes, meaning the main difference in size is among perception, not reality. In contrast, the oval not only appears larger than the princess cut, it genuinely features a larger area (approximately 10% larger within this example), meaning the difference will not be simply an illusion created by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity refers back to the size and amount in the flaws (inclusions and blemishes) within a diamond. Clarity is thought to have the least influence on a diamond’s appearance from your 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades as opposed to those with more imperfections.

And because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws, diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth. These flaws are known as “blemishes and “inclusions”.” Inclusion - found inside the diamond. Inclusions includebubbles and cracks, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-located on the surface of the diamond.

Inclusions

Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond by interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant. Some inclusions could affect the strength of a diamond and in many cases ensure it is much more likely that this diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that appear in diamonds. They could be discovered by themselves or in clusters as well as a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions produce a hazy spot inside the diamond known as a cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is removed from a diamond using a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from your top of the diamond up to the stage where inclusion was within the diamond. They may be an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks inside the diamond that resembles the shape of any feather. If a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond, the diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows.

Cleavage: A straight crack in the diamond with no feathering. If it is hit from the correct angle, a cleavage crack can split the diamond apart.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear around the girdle (Where the top/crown and bottom/pavilion in the stone meet). If there are too many girdle fringes/bearding, it can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines inside a diamond that occurs by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are numerous blemishes that barely have any impact on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur when a diamond is polished and cut, while it is being worn, or they are a natural area of the diamond.

Scratch: A fine surface line that can be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Takes place when diamonds rub against one another from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A series of nicks on the edges from the facet. Causes the facet to look fuzzy.

Pit: Occur each time a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints are to each and every unique person, a diamond plot is to a diamond. The diamond plot is exactly what jewelers use to view how many blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on a diamond plot the better quality the diamond is. The diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as if you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view. Each of the inclusions and blemishes which you might or might not have the ability to see using the naked eye is shown in the diamond plot. When you compare the markings on the diamond plot for the diamond, a few of the markings is going to be impossible to find out unless seen from your side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Rare.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Very rare.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions cannot be seen with the human eye alone and they are challenging to see even with 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are generally seen from the pavilion (bottom) in the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are usually seen from the crown (top) of the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and Blemishes are visible with 10x magnification but almost impossible to detect with all the human eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and could be seen with all the naked eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions which can be difficult to see using the human eye

If a person knows what they are looking for, SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible to the human eye alone

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions which can be so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.

Color

The colour of any diamond does NOT change over time. The scale to grade a diamond’s lack of color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further on the scale you decide to go, the greater yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher within the range are more valuable. The yellowish tint is actually created from the existence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without hue or color

Hardly any diamond is perfect

Chemical impurities affect color

The intensity and hue can either remove or add value

Are available in selection of colors, according to structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intensebrown and yellow, or any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Unusual.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color could be detected. F features a very faint yellowish tint to it that will simply be seen if the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. One can see the difference if compared with a higher quality diamond.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness developed by the mixture of all the white light reflections through the surface and also the on the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light into the colours of the visible spectrum, considered as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, whenever a diamond or light source is moved). In other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even if it has the perfect colour and clarity.

Just how a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is the thing that provides for the highest quantity of light to be returned out from the the top of diamond. A highly cut diamond can look larger because of the light that is certainly being reflected out from its top. When a diamond is poorly cut, the weight may be based at the bottom making the diamond seem small compared to just what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most favored of all shapes. It’s designed to produce the most sparkle. This is the most researched and analyzed cut. It is a timeless cut. About 75% of all diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which means they have got 58 facets. Are more expensive per carat than fancy shapes for just two reasons: demand is high and contains a minimal yield. The majority of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for example; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) could cost 25-35% greater than a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A report of the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was launched. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to increase brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent sparkle and brilliance. It is a more modern cut, created inside the 1960s. They normally cost less since they enable a larger yield from your rough cut. They have an inclination to look smaller when viewed through the top compared to other shapes with the exact same carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Away from all fancy cuts, it’s most popular, especially for engagement rings. Good option for flexibility in dealing with almost any ring style, such as the round cut. Slightly lower price per carat than round cuts. Because of the four sided shape, much like a pyramid, in the princess cut, is similar to 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed from the same rough stone with little in the rough stone being wasted. Crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds, but because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size. Some are rectangular, though traditionally square. More rectangular, discounted price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less can look square to human eye. Length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone if set with other diamonds. Should always be set with prongs therefore the four corners are protected. Probably to chip on the corners. Once close to the outer edge of the rough stone flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were. After the stone is defined, the corners will likely be included in the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones having a table % more than depth %.

Oval: It was created in the 1960s. It is really an elliptical version of the round cut. When viewed through the top, it tends to look bigger than other cuts. Produced by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar fire and brilliance. Elongated shape creates an illusion of the larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear long and slimmer. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more appealing when diamond is to use side stones. Usually have even more of a bowtie.

Marquise: Similar to the oval shape, but the ends are pointed. When viewed from the top, it can look bigger than just about all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. derived from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly experienced a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface area. Maximizes the perceived size of a diamond. The elongated shape makes the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is essential. Two end points have to align with one another, and the right and left sides should mirror each other. Slight misalignment can cause an off kilter look in the setting. Excellent or excellent symmetry is strongly recommended. It needs to be set with the prongs protecting the 2 points. Like the princess cut, the points were once nearest to the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws are more inclined to be located there. The prongs which cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Points are also prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It really is pointed at one round and end in the other. Because of its resemblance to a teardrop, it is also known as a teardrop cut. This sort of cut is normally found in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Mixture of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Must have excellent or very good symmetry. Pont should align with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the upper and lower curves on sides in the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, without any straight edges. Rounded top should look like a semi circle. It must not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in an attempt to add weight, cutters may give diamond added girth close to the point or top. It provides the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It needs to be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It should also be affected by the near future setting. A narrow stone is perfect for dangling earings, as well as a wider shaped stone is better for any solitaire ring. Has a amount of bowtie. Ought to be set with prong on the point., the purpose used to be nearest the outer side of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs which cover the points is likely to make the flaws invisible. Point is additionally very likely to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also referred to as the pillow cut. It is within the form of a square or rectangle. Additionally it is called the old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for about 200 years. It was the de facto diamond shape up until the early twentieth century. It is prized by antique diamond dealers due to the return or light in a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it posseses an enlarged culet. In the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. There has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut, because of him. Standards for this particular cut vary more than other shapes and private taste will mainly become the deciding factor on which stone to choose. Less brilliant that round cuts, but have more fire. They may have three pavilion facet patterns. Ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered, but GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut. These people have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is a length to width ration of 1.00. most popular is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It features a recagular shape using the edges cut to possess steps, which act like mirrors. The mirrors are used to show the clarity of the diamond. Developed by the step cuts of pavilion and its large, open table. Create a hall of mirrors effect, instead of the sparkle of a brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut an elegant appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are easier to see in this particular cut. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5. if prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut. It’s described as a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: it is similar to the emerald cut, but it is more octagonal. It’s corners and steps are larger and deeper. First, produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, during the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but created a comeback around 2002, because of the modifications that increased brilliance. Comparable to square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, a greater crown, and a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares when you look over the table. Because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal, even though has cropped corners. When mounted inside a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape inside a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square towards the human eye alone.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First, developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot crown and pavilion. It produces a remarkable, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between cushion and princess cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or maybe more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is very likely to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 can look square to human eye. Want the brilliance of a round stone, though rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut. Looks very similar to princess cut, but it has cropped corners. Once set, they appear nearly identical due to prongs covering the corners.

Heart Shaped: the same shape as a heart. Modified brilliant cut. unmistakable and Unique symbol of love. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is very important. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, that is in between the two lobes, should be distinct and sharp. The wings, because they curve to the stage, should possess a slight rounded shape. Ones lower than .50 carats might not be a good choice, becuas it’s harder to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is actually placed in the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline in the shape after it’s set. The prongs should be placed one on each lobe, and one in the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants should be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: identifies distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed from your side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth from the width from the diamond. the low the depth %, the larger a diamond of any certain carat will appear.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer edge of diamond where crown meets pavillion. May be faceted- number of tiny polished sides taht go across the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes round the diamond, this kind of girdle has become uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. Just how the girdle is fails to affect the price or appearance from the diamond. it really is explained by width. the width varies at different points from the diamond. and is also referred to as a range, from thinnest to the thickest point. can impact diamond in 3 ways: The thickness of the girdle affects the relative position in the surrounding facets, and so can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.

A thicker girdle will prove to add weight to some diamond, thereby increasing its price. Since a thick girdle adds depth to a diamond but not width, a thick girdled diamond is not going to appear any larger when viewed from your top (e.g. when occur a piece of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. Real, even though the effect on carat price and weight is minimal.

An Exceptionally Thin girdle is a lot more susceptible to chipping, and so should be avoided for diamonds that have to be occur a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and tend to be less prone to chipping across the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and extremely Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners very likely to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.

Diamond culet: small area towards the bottom of the pavilliion. it could be pointed or perhaps a really small facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet scale of Medium or smaller will be invisible for the human eye alone, and also have no negative effect on a diamond’s appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: amount of smoothness of every element of a diamond; Each time a diamond is cut and polished, microscopic surface defects could be developed by the polishing wheel as it drags tiny dislodged crystals over the diamond’s surface. Depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance. if diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer. Poor grade needs to be avoided for those diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets align and intersect. can include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending it away on the wrong angles, which reduces the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a minor decrease in symmetry as a way of preventing a defect found in the rough stone from being retained included in the finished diamond. it’s essential in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and better. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. has a significant effect on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish could be priced 10%-15% more than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more concerning consumer’s perceived value of “excellent” grades, compared to actual influence on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes

Cut refers to diamondssymmetry and proportions, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off the surface (as glare). In the 80% that enters, a percentage will escape through the base of the diamond (where the observer cannot appreciate it). A properly proportioned diamond may have each facet properly placed and angled so as to maximize the amount of light that reflects back out of the crown (top) of the diamond, towards the eye in the observer. This reflected light is regarded as brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Be aware of: Inclusion is seen for the naked eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds with no GIA certification

Comparison between Carat weight and Surface Area

When reviewing any diamond, you should remember that an increase in diameter could have a bigger rise in the crown area which leads to a perceived rise in overall size.

Two diamonds with the exact same carat and shape size could be regarded as having sizes due to the cut dimensions. A diamond having a deep cut has more of it’s weight “hidden” inside the depth, which leads to a smaller diameter than a well cut diamond.

A highly cut diamond which has a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet has a larger diameter can look larger in size.

A diamonds cut and carat see how big the stone will look. A highly cut diamond that is certainly lighter when compared to a poorly cut diamond will appear to be bigger diamond that is more beautiful compared to heavier one.

A carat is founded on weight. It can not reflect that actual size of a diamond. It ought to be considered with the diameter in millimeters along with its cut grade.

The body weight of a poorly cut diamond could be hidden inside the base of the diamond. That will make the diamond appear smaller in proportions.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are extremely expensive and rare. To supply people with the sought after colored diamonds, jewelers place the diamond by way of a process of high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both radiation treatments are complete as well as the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler has to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This can cause the colour of the diamond to alter because the process to add color to your diamond is not full proof.

When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.

When cutting a fancy diamond, as opposed to cutting the diamond to maximize sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the color

Every colored diamond has been irradiated because it has been exposed to natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color caused by presence of boron

Yellow- color due to presence of nitrogen

Green- color caused by natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone

Girdle - Where the top/bottom and crown/pavilion of a diamond meet. The location which is usually grasped by prongs when choosing up a diamond.

Crown - The best part of the diamond that is certainly higher than the girdle

Pavilion - The base part of the diamond that is beneath the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found inside a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws found on the surface of any diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone of the month of April is actually a diamond

The hardest natural substance on the planet is actually a diamond

Diamonds are colorless while in their pure state

The most common colors of the diamond is brown and yellow

The rarest colors of any diamond are red and blue

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is when diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

And invincibilit, in ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutstrength and couragey

The term diamond is derived from the Greek word “adamas” which suggests unbreakable

The Romans and Greeks believed diamonds were the tears in the gods and splinters of fallen stars

Diamonds are only able to be scratched by other diamonds

250 a lot of ore must be mined and processed to produce a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the most useful known, naturally sourced, thermal/heat conductor

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