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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are exactly the same!

Diamonds are usually graded by 3 different experts. The inclusions and blemishes in the diamond are identical; however, the opinions from the experts in the grade from the diamond vary slightly.

The Four C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) utilized to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, about the weight of any paper clip. Carat is different from Karat; the initial one is for your weight of a diamond, the other for the purity of gold.

A greater carat means a rarer and bigger size diamond. The expenses of diamonds vary by size; the larger the carat the greater the cost per Carat will be. The costs of diamonds greatly increase in the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not really a great representation of a diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size from the surface on the top as this is how you view a diamond after it is in its setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have completely different prices dependant upon the other 4 C’s of any Color, Clarity and diamond and Cut.

The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds which were employed to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For example, a diamond weighing .Carats will be referred to as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, such as one point o’ five carats to get a 1.05 CT diamond.

Deciding on the best Carat weight is dependent upon many different factors. A key factor is the dimensions of “her” hand. The smaller “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

Because larger diamonds are rarer, you will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well. Lower than one in a million rough stones mined are large enough to produce a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds of the same carat and shape weight might still appear different in proportions in accordance with the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond has a greater proportion of the total weight “hidden” in the depth, causing a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond. Noticeable, even though these differences are usually small. A properly cut diamond may even have a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet still possess a larger diameter, making it appear larger in proportions.

Cutter of rough diamond needs to balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain as much carat weight from your rough stone as you can). Lots of people are prepared to pay more for larger diamonds that are fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. you will find sometimes pressure around the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is essential because of this.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight could also appear totally different in dimensions in accordance with the form of the diamond. For instance, a 1 carat marquise tends to appear greater than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For every diamond, the chart shows the subsequent:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown really are a very close approximation from the actual scale of a 1 carat excellent cut for each and every shape. Visually, the more shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) tend to appear larger for the eye compared to the round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements correspond to the shape shown above, and are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The total surface (mm2). The area affords the true dimensions of the diamond face up (as it would appear when set in a ring). For example, as the oval diamond image appears larger than the round image, the actual surface area is identical for your two shapes, meaning the real difference in dimensions is one of perception, not reality. In comparison, the oval not merely appears greater than the princess cut, it actually has a larger surface area (approximately 10% larger in this example), meaning the difference is not really simply an illusion created by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity means the amount and size from the flaws (blemishes and inclusions) inside a diamond. Clarity is assumed to have the least influence on a diamond’s appearance through the 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades than those with more imperfections.

And because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws, diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth. These flaws are classified as “inclusions” and “blemishes.” Inclusion - found inside the diamond. Inclusions includebubbles and cracks, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-located on the top of the diamond.

Inclusions

Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond by interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant. Some inclusions can impact the strength of a diamond and in many cases ensure it is much more likely that this diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that show up in diamonds. They may be discovered by themselves or even in clusters and a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions develop a hazy spot in the diamond referred to as a cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken away from a diamond using a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from your surface of the diamond up to the level in which the inclusion was within the diamond. They may be an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks inside the diamond that resembles the shape of the feather. The diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows if a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond.

Cleavage: A straight crack within the diamond without any feathering. If it is hit from the correct angle, a cleavage crack can split the diamond apart.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear around the girdle (In which the top/bottom and crown/pavilion in the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines within a diamond that takes place by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are lots of blemishes that barely have impact on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur each time a diamond is polished and cut, though it may be being worn, or these are an organic area of the diamond.

Scratch: A fine surface line that can be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Develops when diamonds rub against one another from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A series of nicks around the edges of the facet. Causes the facet to appear fuzzy.

Pit: Occur each time a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints will be to each and every unique person, a diamond plot would be to a diamond. The diamond plot is what jewelers use to see the amount of blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on a diamond plot the higher quality the diamond is. If you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view, the diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as. All the inclusions and blemishes which you might or might not have the capacity to see using the naked eye is shown on the diamond plot. When comparing the markings around the diamond plot for the diamond, a number of the markings is going to be impossible to view unless seen from the side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Very rare.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Unusual.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions should not be seen using the human eye alone and are challenging to see despite having 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are generally seen through the pavilion (bottom) in the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are usually seen from the crown (top) from the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and Blemishes are visible with 10x magnification but almost impossible to detect with all the human eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and might be observed using the human eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions which can be difficult to see with the human eye alone

SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye if a person knows what they are looking for.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible to the naked eye

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions which can be so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.

Color

The color of any diamond does NOT change as time passes. The scale to grade a diamond’s lack of color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further along the scale you choose to go, the greater yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher within the range are more valuable. The yellowish tint is actually created from the actual existence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without any hue or color

Almost no diamond is perfect

Chemical impurities affect color

The intensity and hue may either eliminate or add value

Can come in selection of colors, depending on structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intensebrown and yellow, or any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Very rare.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color could be detected. F features a very faint yellowish tint into it that can just be seen once the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. If compared with a higher quality diamond, one can see the difference.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness developed by the mixture of all the white light reflections through the surface and the within a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light to the colours of the visible spectrum, viewed as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, when a diamond or source of light is moved). In other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even if it has the perfect colour and clarity.

Just how a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is exactly what provides for the maximum amount of light to become returned out from the top of the diamond. A highly cut diamond will appear larger due to the light that is certainly being reflected from its top. Whenever a diamond is poorly cut, the weight may be based at the bottom making the diamond seem small compared to exactly what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most favored of shapes. It’s designed to make the most sparkle. It will be the most analyzed and researched cut. It really is a timeless cut. About 75% of diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which means they have 58 facets. Are more expensive per carat than fancy shapes for two reasons: demand is high and it has a low yield. A lot of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for instance; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) might cost 25-35% over a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A report of the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was launched. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to maximize brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent brilliance and sparkle. It really is a more modern cut, created inside the 1960s. They normally are less expensive since they permit a better yield from your rough cut. They tend to look smaller when viewed from the top compared to other shapes with similar carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. From all fancy cuts, it’s most popular, specifically for engagement rings. Good choice for flexibility in utilizing almost any ring style, just like the round cut. Slightly discounted price per carat than round cuts. As a result of four sided shape, comparable to a pyramid, from the princess cut, is similar to 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed from the same rough stone with little in the rough stone being wasted. Because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size, though crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds. Traditionally square, but some are rectangular. More rectangular, lower price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will show up square to human eye. If set with other diamonds, length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone. Ought to always be set with prongs so the four corners are protected. More than likely to chip on the corners. Flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were once close to the outer edge of the rough stone. After the stone is defined, the corners will likely be protected by the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones having a table % more than depth %.

Oval: It had been created in the 1960s. It is an elliptical version from the round cut. When viewed from the top, it is likely to look larger than other cuts. Developed by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar fire and brilliance. Elongated shape creates an illusion of the larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear long and slimmer. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more attractive when diamond is with side stones. Tend to have even more of a bowtie.

Marquise: The ends are pointed, although similar to the oval shape. When viewed through the top, it will look larger than almost all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, to whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly experienced a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown area. Maximizes the perceived size of a diamond. The elongated shape helps make the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is essential. Two end points need to align together, as well as the right and left sides should mirror each other. Slight misalignment can cause an off kilter try looking in the setting. Excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended. It should be set with all the prongs protecting the 2 points. Such as the princess cut, the points were once nearest the outer side of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs that cover the points can make the flaws invisible. Points are also prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It is actually pointed at one end and round on the other. It is also known as a teardrop cut, because of its resemblance to a teardrop. This kind of cut is generally utilized in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Mixture of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Needs to have excellent or very good symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. wings and Shoulder, the upper and lower curves for both sides of the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, without straight edges. Rounded top should consider looking such as a semi circle. It must not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in an attempt to add weight, cutters can provide diamond added girth close to the point or top. It provides the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It should be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It also need to be afflicted with the long run setting. A narrow stone is great for dangling earings, as well as a wider shaped stone is better for a solitaire ring. Contains a level of bowtie. Should be set with prong in the point., the point was once closest to the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs which cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Point is also very likely to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also called the pillow cut. It is incorporated in the shape of a square or rectangle. It is also called the old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for around 200 years. It had been the de facto diamond shape till the early twentieth century. It is actually prized by antique diamond dealers because of the return or light in a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it posseses an enlarged culet. In the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. Because of him, there has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut. Standards with this cut vary greater than other shapes and private taste will mainly be the deciding factor on which stone to choose. Less brilliant that round cuts, but have more fire. They have got three pavilion facet patterns. GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut, though ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered. They have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is a length to width ration of 1.00. most widely used is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It has a recagular shape using the edges cut to have steps, which work like mirrors. The mirrors are utilized to show the clarity from the diamond. Produced by the step cuts of pavilion as well as its large, open table. Generate a hall of mirrors effect, rather than the sparkle of a brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut a stylish appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are simpler to see in this cut. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5. if prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut. It’s described as a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: It is more octagonal, though it is similar to the emerald cut. It’s corners and steps are larger and deeper. First produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, at that time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but produced a comeback around 2002, as a result of modifications that increased brilliance. Much like square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, a higher crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares when you examine the table. Because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal, even though has cropped corners. When mounted inside a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square towards the naked eye.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First, developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot pavilion and crown. It produces a remarkable, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between princess and cushion cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or even more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is very likely to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 will show up square to human eye. Rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut, but want the brilliance of a round stone. It has cropped corners, though looks very similar to princess cut. Once set, they look nearly identical as a result of prongs covering the corners.

Heart Shaped: the same shape as a heart. Modified brilliant cut. Unique and unmistakable symbol of affection. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is very important. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which is in between the two lobes, needs to be sharp and distinct. The wings, since they curve to the level, should have a very slight rounded shape. Ones lower than .50 carats will not be a good choice, becuas it’s more challenging to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is actually occur the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline from the shape after it’s set. The prongs ought to be placed one on each lobe, and something around the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants ought to be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: describes distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed from the side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth from the width from the diamond. the reduced the depth %, the bigger a diamond of a certain carat can look.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer side of diamond where crown meets pavillion. Might be faceted- number of tiny polished sides taht go round the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes across the diamond, this type of girdle is now uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. The way the girdle is does not change the price or appearance from the diamond. it is actually explained by width. the width varies at different points of the diamond. and is also identified as a range, from thinnest to the thickest point. can impact diamond in three ways: The thickness from the girdle affects the relative position of the surrounding facets, therefore can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.

A thicker girdle will add weight to some diamond, thereby increasing its price. Since a thick girdle adds depth to your diamond although not width, a thick girdled diamond will never appear any larger when viewed from your top (e.g. when occur a bit of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. The effect on carat weight and price is minimal, but real.

An Extremely Thin girdle is more vunerable to chipping, and for that reason needs to be avoided for diamonds that are to be placed in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and tend to be less susceptible to chipping round the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and extremely Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners more prone to chipping. Consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners if you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle.

Diamond culet: small area at the bottom in the pavilliion. it could be pointed or even a very small facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet dimensions of Medium or smaller will likely be invisible for the human eye alone, and also have no negative influence on a diamond’s appearance. It may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: amount of smoothness of each component of a diamond; Each time a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects may be created by the polishing wheel because it drags tiny dislodged crystals over the diamond’s surface. Depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance. if diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer. Poor grade needs to be avoided for many diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets intersect and align. can include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending it off at the wrong angles, which cuts down on the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a minor reduction in symmetry as a means of preventing a defect present in the rough stone from being retained as part of the finished diamond. it’s important in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and better. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. includes a significant effect on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish could be priced 10%-15% more than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more to do with consumer’s perceived worth of “excellent” grades, than the actual impact on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes

Cut refers to diamondssymmetry and proportions, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off the surface (as glare). In the 80% that enters, a portion will escape through the bottom of the diamond (in which the observer cannot appreciate it). A highly proportioned diamond will have each facet properly placed and angled so as to maximize the quantity of light that reflects back out from the crown (top) from the diamond, towards the eye in the observer. This reflected light is regarded as fire, scintillation and brilliance.

Look out for: Inclusion is visible for the naked eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds with no GIA certification

Comparison between Carat Surface and weight Area

When reviewing any diamond, it is essential to keep in mind that an increase in diameter may have a bigger rise in the crown surface which leads to a perceived rise in overall size.

Two diamonds with similar shape and carat size may be regarded as having various sizes due to the cut dimensions. A diamond with a deep cut has much more of it’s weight “hidden” inside the depth, which leads to a smaller diameter compared to a well cut diamond.

A well cut diamond that has a slightly lower carat weight compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet features a larger diameter can look larger in size.

A diamonds cut and carat see how big the stone will appear. A well cut diamond which is lighter when compared to a poorly cut diamond will seem to be bigger diamond that is certainly more beautiful compared to the heavier one.

A carat is based on weight. It will not reflect that actual size of a diamond. It needs to be considered with all the diameter in millimeters along with its cut grade.

The weight of the poorly cut diamond may be hidden within the base of the diamond. That will make the diamond appear smaller in dimensions.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are very rare and expensive. To offer the public with the popular colored diamonds, jewelers put the diamond via a procedure for high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after the radiation treatments are complete and the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler needs to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This may cause the color of the diamond to change as the process to incorporate color to your diamond is not really full proof.

When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.

When cutting an expensive diamond, rather than cutting the diamond to increase sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the color

Every colored diamond has become irradiated because it has been subjected to natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color brought on by presence of boron

Yellow- color brought on by presence of nitrogen

Green- color brought on by natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone

Girdle - In which the top/bottom and crown/pavilion of a diamond meet. The region which is usually grasped by prongs when picking up a diamond.

Crown - The top portion of the diamond which is above the girdle

Pavilion - The base area of the diamond which is below the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found within a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws found on the surface of a diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone of the month of April is really a diamond

The most difficult natural substance on Earth is really a diamond

Diamonds are colorless when in their pure state

The most common colors of any diamond is yellow and brown

The rarest colors of any diamond are red and blue

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is where diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

And invincibilit, in ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutstrength and couragey

The term diamond is derived from the Greek word “adamas” which means unbreakable

The Greeks and Romans believed diamonds were the tears in the gods and splinters of fallen stars

Diamonds are only able to be scratched by other diamonds

250 plenty of ore should be mined and processed to make a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the most effective known, naturally occurring, thermal/heat conductor

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