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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are exactly the same!

Diamonds are usually graded by 3 different experts. The blemishes and inclusions in the diamond are the same; however, the opinions from the experts on the grade from the diamond vary slightly.

The Four C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) employed to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, concerning the weight of the paper clip. Carat differs from Karat; the first is for the weight of the diamond, another towards the purity of gold.

An increased carat means a rarer and bigger size diamond. The expense of diamonds vary by size; the greater the carat the greater the cost per Carat will be. The prices of diamonds greatly increase at the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight will not be a great representation of any diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size through the surface area on top as this is how we view a diamond after it is in their setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have totally different prices depending on the other 4 C’s of any diamond, Clarity and Color and Cut.

The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds that have been employed to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” As an example, a diamond weighing .Carats will likely be described as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, including some time o’ five carats for a 1.05 CT diamond.

Deciding on the best Carat weight depends upon a variety of factors. A key factor is the size of “her” hand. Smaller “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

Because larger diamonds are rarer, you will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well. Lower than one in a million rough stones mined are large enough to generate a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds the exact same shape and carat weight can still appear different in proportions based on the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond features a greater proportion of their total weight “hidden” in the depth, causing a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond. Noticeable, even though these differences are usually small. A properly cut diamond may actually have a slightly lower carat weight compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet still have a larger diameter, making it appear larger in size.

Cutter of rough diamond must balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to keep the maximum amount of carat weight from the rough stone as is possible). Lots of people are ready to pay more for larger diamonds that are fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. there are at times pressure on the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is very important for this reason.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight might also appear totally different in dimensions in accordance with the model of the diamond. For instance, a 1 carat marquise tends to appear greater than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each and every diamond, the chart shows these:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown really are a very close approximation from the actual scale of a 1 carat excellent cut for each and every shape. Visually, the more time shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) have a tendency to appear larger for the eye compared to round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements match the shape shown above, and are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The total area (mm2). The area affords the true dimensions of the diamond face up (because it would appear when occur a ring). For example, while the oval diamond image appears bigger than the round image, the actual area is identical for the two shapes, meaning the real difference in size is just one of perception, not reality. On the other hand, the oval not just appears larger than the princess cut, it genuinely has a larger surface (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the main difference is not really simply an illusion produced by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity refers to the size and amount of the flaws (inclusions and blemishes) within a diamond. Clarity is believed to get the least effect on a diamond’s appearance from the 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades as opposed to those with more imperfections.

Diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth, and because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws. These flaws are referred to as “inclusions” and “blemishes.” Inclusion - found inside the diamond. Inclusions includecracks and bubbles, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-located on the top of the diamond.

Inclusions

Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond by interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant. Some inclusions can affect the potency of a diamond and in some cases allow it to be much more likely that this diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that appear in diamonds. They can be discovered by themselves or perhaps in clusters and a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions produce a hazy spot inside the diamond known as a cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken off from the diamond employing a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from the surface of the diamond up to the stage where the inclusion was within the diamond. These are an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks in the diamond that resembles the design of the feather. The diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows if a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond.

Cleavage: A straight crack within the diamond without any feathering. A cleavage crack can split the diamond apart if it is hit from the correct angle.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear round the girdle (In which the top/bottom and crown/pavilion in the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines in a diamond that develops by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are many blemishes that barely possess impact on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur each time a diamond is cut and polished, while it is being worn, or these are an all natural area of the diamond.

Scratch: A great surface line which can be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Develops when diamonds rub against each other from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A number of nicks in the edges from the facet. Causes the facet to appear fuzzy.

Pit: Occur whenever a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints are to each and every unique person, a diamond plot would be to a diamond. The diamond plot is the thing that jewelers use to find out the number of blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on a diamond plot the better quality the diamond is. The diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as if you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view. Each of the blemishes and inclusions which you might or might not have the capacity to see with the naked eye is shown in the diamond plot. When comparing the markings on the diamond plot to the diamond, some of the markings is going to be impossible to find out unless seen from the side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Very rare.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Unusual.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions cannot be seen with all the human eye and therefore are challenging to see despite 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are often seen from your pavilion (bottom) of the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are usually seen from your crown (top) from the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and Blemishes are visible with 10x magnification but nearly impossible to detect with all the human eye alone.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and might be seen using the human eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions that are hard to see with the naked eye

If a person knows what they are looking for, SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible for the human eye

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions which are so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.

Color

The color of the diamond does NOT change over time. The scale to grade a diamond’s insufficient color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further on the scale you go, the better yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher in the range tend to be more valuable. The yellowish tint is created from the existence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without hue or color

Hardly any diamond is perfect

Chemical impurities affect color

The intensity and hue may either eliminate or add value

Are available in variety of colors, according to structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intensebrown and yellows Alternatively, any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Unusual.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color may be detected. F has a very faint yellowish tint with it that can simply be seen when the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. If compared with a higher quality diamond, one can see the difference.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness created by the mixture of all the white light reflections through the surface and the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light to the colours from the visible spectrum, considered as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, whenever a diamond or light source is moved). If it has the perfect colour and clarity, in other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even.

The way in which a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is the thing that provides for the highest quantity of light to become returned out of the top of the diamond. A well cut diamond will show up larger as a result of light which is being reflected out from its top. Whenever a diamond is poorly cut, the weight might be based towards the bottom making the diamond seem small compared to what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most widely used of all shapes. It’s created to produce the most sparkle. It is the most researched and analyzed cut. This is a timeless cut. About 75% of all diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which means they may have 58 facets. Will cost more per carat than fancy shapes for 2 reasons: demand is high and contains a minimal yield. A lot of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for instance; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% over a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A report from the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was launched. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to optimize brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent sparkle and brilliance. This is a more modern cut, created within the 1960s. They normally are less expensive simply because they enable a greater yield through the rough cut. They have an inclination to check smaller when viewed through the top in comparison to other shapes with the exact same carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Out of all fancy cuts, it’s most favored, especially for engagement rings. Good option for flexibility in dealing with almost any ring style, like the round cut. Slightly discounted price per carat than round cuts. Due to the four sided shape, comparable to a pyramid, from the princess cut, is a lot like 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed through the same rough stone with little of the rough stone being wasted. Crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds, but because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size. Traditionally square, but some are rectangular. More rectangular, lower price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will show up square to human eye alone. If set with other diamonds, length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone. Should always be set with prongs therefore the four corners are protected. Probably to chip on the corners. Once close to the outer edge of the rough stone flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were. Once the stone is placed, the corners is going to be protected by the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones using a table % more than depth %.

Oval: It was created in the 1960s. It is an elliptical version of the round cut. When viewed from the top, it has a tendency to look larger than other cuts. Developed by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar fire and brilliance. Elongated shape creates an illusion of any larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear slimmer and long. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more attractive when diamond is by using side stones. Usually have much more of a bowtie.

Marquise: Similar to the oval shape, but the ends are pointed. When viewed from your top, it is going to look larger than virtually all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly enjoyed a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface. Maximizes the perceived scale of a diamond. The elongated shape helps make the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is essential. Two end points need to align with each other, and also the right and left sides should mirror one another. Slight misalignment may cause an off kilter try looking in the setting. Excellent or great symmetry is strongly recommended. It needs to be set with all the prongs protecting both points. Like the princess cut, the points were once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, so flaws will probably be located there. The prongs which cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Points will also be more prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It really is pointed at one end and round at the other. Because of its resemblance to a teardrop, it is also known as a teardrop cut. This sort of cut is generally found in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Combination of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Needs to have excellent or very good symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the lower and upper curves on both sides of the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, without straight edges. Rounded top should consider looking just like a semi circle. It really should not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in an effort to add weight, cutters can provide diamond added girth near the point or top. It provides the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It should be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It ought to be impacted by the future setting. A narrow stone is perfect for dangling earings, and a wider shaped stone is much better to get a solitaire ring. Includes a degree of bowtie. Should be set with prong at the point., the point was once nearest the outer side of the rough stone, so flaws will probably be located there. The prongs that cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Point can also be very likely to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also called the pillow cut. It is within the model of a square or rectangle. Additionally it is known as the old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for around 200 years. It was the de facto diamond shape till the early twentieth century. It really is prized by antique diamond dealers as a result of return or light within a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. It also comes with an enlarged culet. Within the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. There has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut, because of him. Standards for this cut vary greater than other shapes and personal taste will mainly function as the deciding factor on which stone to choose. Less brilliant that round cuts, but have more fire. They may have three pavilion facet patterns. GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut, though ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered. These people have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is really a length to width ration of 1.00. most widely used is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It possesses a recagular shape with the edges cut to have steps, which act like mirrors. The mirrors are utilized to show the clarity from the diamond. Created by the step cuts of pavilion and its large, open table. Create a hall of mirrors effect, instead of the sparkle of any brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut a stylish appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are easier to see in this cut. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5. if prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut. It’s described as a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: It is more octagonal, though it is similar to the emerald cut. It’s steps and corners are deeper and larger. First produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, at the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but made a comeback around 2002, due to the modifications that increased brilliance. Similar to square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, an increased crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares when you look through the table. Has cropped corners, but because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal. When mounted inside a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square to the human eye.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First, developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot crown and pavilion. It produces a vibrant, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between princess and cushion cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or even more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more likely to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 will show up square to naked eye. Rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut, but want the brilliance of a round stone. It has cropped corners, though looks very similar to princess cut. Once set, they appear nearly identical due to prongs within the corners.

Heart Shaped: shaped like a heart. Modified brilliant cut. unmistakable and Unique symbol of love. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is essential. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which can be between the two lobes, ought to be distinct and sharp. The wings, since they curve to the point, should have a very slight rounded shape. Ones lower than .50 carats will not be a great choice, becuas it’s more challenging to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it really is placed in the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline from the shape after it’s set. The prongs should be placed one on each lobe, and something in the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants needs to be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: describes distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed from your side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth through the width of the diamond. the low the depth %, the larger a diamond of any certain carat will appear.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer side of diamond where crown meets pavillion. Might be faceted- combination of tiny polished sides taht go across the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes round the diamond, this type of girdle is currently uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. The way the girdle is does not impact the price or appearance from the diamond. it is actually explained by width. the width varies at different points in the diamond. and it is described as a range, from thinnest towards the thickest point. can impact diamond in 3 ways: The thickness from the girdle affects the relative position of the surrounding facets, and thus can impact cut. A diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width, because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade.

A thicker girdle will prove to add weight to your diamond, thereby increasing its price. Since a thick girdle adds depth to your diamond although not width, a thick girdled diamond is not going to appear any larger when viewed through the top (e.g. when placed in a piece of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. The effect on carat weight and price is minimal, but real.

An Exceptionally Thin girdle is a lot more susceptible to chipping, and for that reason ought to be avoided for diamonds that have to be occur a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and tend to be less vunerable to chipping across the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and incredibly Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners more prone to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.

Diamond culet: small area towards the bottom from the pavilliion. it can be pointed or a tiny facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet scale of Medium or smaller will be invisible for the human eye alone, and also have no negative influence on a diamond’s appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion. Alternatively, create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: degree of smoothness of each component of a diamond; Whenever a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects could be created by the polishing wheel as it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. If diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer, depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance.. Poor grade ought to be avoided for all diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets intersect and align. can include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending them back on the wrong angles, which cuts down on the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a minor decline in symmetry as a way of preventing a defect contained in the rough stone from being retained within the finished diamond. it’s essential in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and better. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. has a significant influence on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish might be priced 10%-15% higher than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more related to consumer’s perceived value of “excellent” grades, than the actual influence on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes

Cut identifies diamondssymmetry and proportions, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off of the surface (as glare). From the 80% that enters, a percentage will escape through the foot of the diamond (where observer cannot appreciate it). A highly proportioned diamond may have each facet properly placed and angled in order to maximize the amount of light that reflects back from the crown (top) from the diamond, to the eye from the observer. This reflected light is regarded as fire, scintillation and brilliance.

Be aware of: Inclusion is visible towards the naked eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds with no GIA certification

Comparison between Carat weight and Surface Area

When reviewing any diamond, it is essential to understand that an increase in diameter may have a more substantial increase in the crown surface which results in a perceived boost in overall size.

Two diamonds with the exact same shape and carat size can be regarded as having sizes as a result of cut dimensions. A diamond using a deep cut has even more of it’s weight “hidden” within the depth, which results in a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond.

A properly cut diamond that has a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, yet includes a larger diameter will show up larger in size.

A diamonds cut and carat see how big the stone can look. A properly cut diamond that is certainly lighter compared to a poorly cut diamond will seem to be bigger diamond that is certainly more beautiful than the heavier one.

A carat is based on weight. It can not reflect that actual dimensions of a diamond. It should be considered with all the diameter in millimeters along with its cut grade.

The weight of a poorly cut diamond may be hidden within the bottom of the diamond. That can make the diamond appear smaller in dimensions.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are very expensive and rare. To supply people with all the desired colored diamonds, jewelers put the diamond via a procedure of high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both the radiation treatments are complete and also the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler needs to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This may cause the color of the diamond to change since the process to incorporate color to your diamond will not be full proof.

When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.

When cutting an expensive diamond, rather than cutting the diamond to maximize sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the colour

Every colored diamond has been irradiated because it really has been subjected to natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color brought on by presence of boron

Yellow- color caused by presence of nitrogen

Green- color due to natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone

Girdle - Where the top/crown and bottom/pavilion of a diamond meet. The area that is usually grasped by prongs when picking up a diamond.

Crown - The very best part of the diamond which is higher than the girdle

Pavilion - The bottom part of the diamond that is beneath the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found in a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws located on the surface of the diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone from the month of April is a diamond

The most difficult natural substance on Earth is a diamond

Diamonds are colorless if in their pure state

The most frequent colors of a diamond is yellow and brown

The rarest colors of the diamond are blue and red

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is when diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

And invincibilit, in ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutstrength and couragey

The word diamond comes from the Greek word “adamas” which means unbreakable

The Romans and Greeks believed diamonds were the tears of the splinters and gods of fallen stars

Diamonds can only be scratched by other diamonds

250 plenty of ore has to be mined and processed to make a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the most useful known, natural, thermal/heat conductor

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